Alicante popular fiestas
Two of the most spectacular celebrations of the entire Spanish
repertoire are held along the Costa Blanca. Moros y Cristianos
and the Misterio de Elche, are, without a doubt, events of maximum
interest. However, there are many other festivities which cannot
all be mentioned here and though they cannot match the splendour
of the two we have just mentioned, they are indeed worthy of the
traveller's interest, particularly if he is willing to be caught
up in the colourful excitement and celebrations of the local festivities.
The Moros y Cristianos are not exclusive to Alcoy, but to the
forty-six towns in the Alicante region which commemorate the Reconquest
in this manner. However it is in Alcoy where the fiesta is at
its best. The parades, displays and the appearance of Sant Jordi
(St. George) in the papiermache castle, which is installed in
the main square, are per force accompanied by the smell of gunpowder,
the noise of explosions, the solemn, bright music and the fantastic
colour of a lavish wardrobe, which may not be entirely faithful
to the historical models. The central motif is the commemoration
of the Christian victory over the troops of al-Azraq, though some
scholars are inclined to think that the interpretation dates back
to the times when the old Christians accused the Moriscos of collaborating
with the Algerian Pirates. In fact, it does not seem that in the
centuries immediately following the Reconquest, the hostilities
between Muslims and Christians were so violent that it would be
necessary to relive the victory over the Moors year after year
in a ritual manner as if such exorcisms were necessary. The dates
for the majority of the towns which celebrate the Moros y Cristianos
are around the 22nd and 24th of April.
Separate mention should be made of the "Moors and Christians"
celebrations in Villajoyosa during the last week of July when
an animated naval battle and landing on the beach of the warring
troops is carried out. All the action reaches its peak with the
defence of the Castle erected in the square and the triumph of
the Christian warriors over the infidels.
The Misteri d'Elx (Mystery of Elche) belongs to an entirely different
atmosphere, that of the religious celebrations. During the middle
of August a play about the Assumption of the virgin is put on
in the El Transito Basilica in accordance with a libretto and
musical score of medieval origin. Theatre and music fans will
find a unique spectacle here in which the monodic Oriental heritage
(most outstanding in the first act) and the polyphonic contributions
of the Middle Ages are superimposed. The fact that the play is
put on by non-professional actors, who rehearse throughout the
year, and in some scene children are responsible for developing
the very complex staging, contributes to the great interest of
this mystery play which is at times, truly overwhelming. Though
the key dates are the 14th and 15th of August, abbreviated performances,
which last for four hours, are put on during the preceding week.
Following the same line of religious celebrations, the mystery
play Auto de Los Reyes Magos of Cañada (very close to Villena)
and Holy Week in Orihuela and Crevillente are also worthy of mention.
As in many areas of the Mediterranean, fire is an important element
in the popular culture. The fireworks and gunpowder in all their
forms are a constant presence in all of the celebrations. In Alicante,
the Fogueres de Sant Joan (the bonfires of St John on the 24th
of June) are similar to the fallas in Valencia and are a magnificent
occasion to enjoy an evening celebration, filled with warmth and
abounding joy. Javea and also some mountain towns offer the traveller
the opportunity of being part of the Fire Fiestas in which certain
pagan elements are clearly noticeable.
Denia is a separate case. During the second week of July a very
unusual bullfight -boux del mar- takes place on the beach. The
animal, in this case, is not killed, for the ritual only required
that it be submerged in the water. Denia also celebrates the Day
of San Jose with interesting fallas. Also noteworthy are the fallas
at Benidorm.
An interesting medieval tournament is held in L'Alfas del Pi.
In many towns of the Costa Blanca and its surroundings, a deeply-rooted
custom is still preserved today: the playing of Valencia handball
-the trinquet- on the fronton (pelota court) or in the street
(pilota de carrer) is an ancient sport which causes passions to
rise. Aside from the intercity championships which are held in
the spring and summer, the traveller will have the opportunity
of watching a game being played in the street on Saturdays and
Sundays in good weather.
Pigeon breeding is another of the curious activities that would
delight an anthropologist. Tradition calls for periodical competitions
to be held between pigeons, consisting in the pursuit of a female
pigeon. The pigeon which managers to catch the female species
obtains one of the most important trophies of the region for its
owner.
We cannot finish this section without mentioning one of the most
lovely and popular traditions of this land. No matter how small
the town, almost every community has it own band prepared to interpret
everything from pasodobles to the e music of the most renowned
composers. Throughout the year it is possible in Alicante to enjoy
weekly concerts which are performed free of charge in the Paseo
de La Explanada, the same as in all the festivities in honour
of the respective Patron Saints of the coastal and inland towns
where the bands play a very important role. The contest of Habaneras
which is repeated in Torrevieja every August is also a major tourist
attraction.
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